Benin is wonderfully tourist friendly. There are good roads, a wide range of accommodation options and ecotourism initiatives that offer the chance to delve into Beninese life. Now is an ideal time to go: the country sits on the cusp of discovery.

• spend a night at the lakeside stilt village of Ganvié and peer out over sublime lake life.
• maps
• learn traditional fishing techniques on Lake Ahémé and take a dip at the lake’s shores.
• transport
• spot lions, cheetahs, elephants and more in Parc National de la Pendjari, one of West Af-rica’s best wildlife parks.
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Cotonou, Route des Peches, Poro Novo, Ouidah, Grand Popo, Abomey, The Atakora Region, Parc National de la Pendjari, Understand Benin, Be-nin Today, History, People of Benin, Religion, The Arts, Food & Drink, Environment, Survival Guide

Burkina should be on everyone’s travel list – it may not have many big-ticket attractions, but the warmth of its welcome and the friendliness of the Burkinabé people is unique. There’s also a lively cultural scene and enchanting landscapes.

• wander amid other-worldly rock formations of the Sindou Peaks and Burkina’s lush land-scapes
• maps
• marvel over the meaning and originality of the Cour Royale at Tiébélé
• transport
• sip beers to the sound of Bobo-Dioulasso’s fantastic musicians
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Ouagadougou, Bobo-Dioulasso, Banfora, Sindou Peaks, Gaoua & Lobi Country, Réserve de Nazinga, Tiébélé & Kassena Country, Understand Burkina Faso, Burkina Faso Today, History, People of Burkina Faso, Religion, The Arts, Food & Drink, Environment, Survival Guide

Jutting up from the Atlantic, some 500km west of Senegal, this stunning island chain has a captivating blend of mountains, beaches and peaceful seaside villages. Add its famed music and hospitality, and you’ll see why many have come – and never left.

• Hike the misty pine-clad ridges, the sheer canyons and the verdant valleys of Santo Antão, Cabo Verde’s most spectacular island
• maps
• admire the views from the summit of Pico de Fogo, the country’s only active volcano and a stunning, cinder-clad, 2829m-high peak.
• transport
• follow the melodic sounds of morna and coladeira to festive, open-air spots scattered around the music-loving seaside town of São Vicente.
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Santiago, Praia, Cidade Velha, São Vicente, Mindelo, Santo Antão, Paúl, Fogo, São Filipe, Cha das Caldeiras, Sal, Santa Maria, Boa Vista, Understand Cabo Verde, Cabo VerdeToday, History, Culture, People, Religion, Music, Environment, Survival Guide

Cameroon is Africa’s throbbing heart, a crazed, sultry mosaic of active volcanoes, white-sand beaches, thick rainforest and magnificent parched landscapes broken up by the bizarre rock for-mations of the Sahel.

• explore stunning verdant scenery, picturesque villages and rushing rivers in the Ring Road around Bamenda
• maps
• shop for flamboyant bronze and beaded crafts at the Village des Artisans in the attractive Islamic town of Foumban
• transport
• don your hiking boots to climb the mist-shrouded slopes of Mt Cameroon, West Africa’s highest peak.
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Yaoundé, Western Cameroon, Douala, Buea, Limbe, Bamenda, The Ring Road, Foumban, Bandjoun, Southern Cameroon, Kribi, Campo, Eastern Cameroon, Understand Cameroon, Cameroon Today, History, Culture, Food & Drink, Environ-ment, Survival Guide.

Côte d’Ivoire is a stunner, shingled with starfish-studded sands, palm-tree forests and roads so orange they resemble strips of bronzing powder. This is a true tropical paradise, and a country that is striding towards modernisation and economic progress without losing its identity.

• dine on creative Ivoirian dishes, explore contemporary African art and sway to the sweet sounds of coupédecalé music in the shadow of Abidjan’s stunning skyline.
• maps
• enjoy the relaxed beach vibe and explore the dilapidating colonial past of Côte d’Ivoire at Grand Bassam.
• transport
• laze in a pirogue while watching surfers slide to shore, then tuck into fresh seafood under the stars at Assinie.
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Abidjan, The Eastern Beaches, Grand Bassam, As-sinie, The West Coast, Sassandra, San Pédro, Yamoussoukro, Man, Parc National De Taï, Un-derstand Côte d’Ivoire, Côte d’Ivoire Today, History, Arts & Crafts, Environment, Survival Guide.

This is the land of painted-faced primates, soft clouds of butterflies and insects so colourful they belong in the realm of fiction. Equatorial Guinea has something of a reputation, but there’s plenty to bring you to its beautiful black-and-white shores.

• go wide-eyed over the strange combination of little villages with Spanish colonial church-es, dense rainforest, rare wildlife and oil platforms on Bioko Island
• maps
• explore Malabo’s colonial architecture, bustling markets and buzzing nightlife
• transport
• whisper during forest walks in search of gorillas, elephants, chimpanzees and a glorious array of colourful birds and insects in Monte Alen National Park
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Malabo, Ureca, Rio Muni, Bata, Rio Campo, Cogo, Isla Corisco, Monte Alen National Park, Understand Equatorial Guinea, Equatorial Guinea Today, History, People of Equatorial Guinea, Arts & Crafts, Environment, Survival Guide.

Ghana is suffused with the most incredible energy. With its welcoming beaches, gorgeous hinterland, rich culture, vibrant cities, diverse wildlife, easy transport and affable inhabitants, it’s no wonder Ghana is sometimes labelled ‘Africa for beginners’.

• gain a chilling insight into the history of the slave trade at Cape Coast Castle
• maps
• hike, climb waterfalls and swim in the former German Togoland, the Volta Region in Ghana’s east
• transport
• join a safari for some close-up encounters with herds of elephants at Mole National Park
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Accra, Volta Region, Amedzofe, Tafi Atome & Tafi Abuipe, Wli Falls, Kokrobite, Anomabu, Cape Coast, Kakum National Park, Elmina, Takoradi, Axim, Busua, Akwidaa & Cape Three Points, Kumasi, Lake Bosumtwe & Abono, Tamale, Mole National Park, Bolgatanga, Larabanga, Wa, Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary, Understand Ghana, Ghana Today, History, The Arts, Survival Guide

Imagine you’re travelling on smooth highways, and get tempted by a dusty turn-off signed Adventure. Well, that turn-off is Guinea. This is a land of surprising beauty, from the rolling mountain plateau of Fouta Djalon to wide Sahelian lands and thick forests.

• stretch out on palm-fringed strands, sipping fresh coconut juice, on the Îles de Los
• maps
• ramble through the mountains and swim in the waterfalls of the majestic plateau of Fouta Djalon
• transport
• come face to face with cheeky, alcohol-drinking chimps during a forest walk in Bossou
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Conakry, Fouta Djalon, Îles de Los, Mamou, Dalaba, Mali-Yemberem, Forest Region, Kissidougou, N’zérékoré, Bossou, Parc National du Haut Niger, Understand Guinea, Guinea Today, History, Survival Guide.

The jewel in the country’s crown is the labyrinth of tropical islands that make up the Ar-quipélago dos Bijagós. Hippos, monkeys, chimps and buffaloes thrive in protected reserves and hundreds of bird species call its vast mangroves and wetlands home.

• relax amid world-class facilities and natural splendour on the Ilha de Rubane
• maps
• experience village life, a short walk from your island getaway, on the Ilha de Bubaque
• transport
• tango in Bissau Velho’s cobbled streets by candlelight, after a dinner of salty bacalau and red wine.
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Bissau, Arquipélago dos Bijagós, Ilha de Bolama, Ilha de Bubaque, Ilha de Orango, Ilha João Vieira, Varela, Quinhámel, Parc Natural das Lagoas de Cufada, Parque Nacional de Cantanhez, Understand Guinea-Bissau, Guinea-Bissau Today, History, People, Arts & Crafts, Survival Guide.

Like an exquisite sandcastle formed in a harsh desert landscape, Mali is blessed by an ex-traordinary amount of wonders. Yet for now, its landscapes, monuments and stories are off-limits, sealed from tourists by a conflict that is threatening the very culture of Mali.

• Dogon Country’s fairytale of rose-coloured villages, big blue skies, sacred crocodiles and sandstone cliffs
• maps
• The world’s most captivating mudbrick mosque in Djenné
• transport
• Timbuktu’s ancient libraries, monuments and texts of wisdom on philosophy and astrono-my
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Understand Mali, Mali Today, History, Culture, People of Mali, Environment, Survival Guide.

Driving through the vast, sun-bleached landscape of Mauritania, you’d be forgiven for ex-pecting to see a tricked-out post-apocalyptic hot rod from Mad Max: Fury Road on the horizon. There’s no doubt that Mauritania has some of the continent’s grandest scenery.

• track down a rare colony of charismatic Mediterranean monk seals in the Réserve Satellite du Cap Blanc in the country’s remote north.
• maps
• taste Mauritanian cooking in Nouakchott’s best and most atmospheric restaurant, La Tis-sayade
• transport
• observe vast flocks of birds from a traditional pirogue in the Parc National du Banc d’Arguin
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Nouakchott, Nouâdhibou, Parc National du Banc d’Arguin, Understand Mauritania, Mauritania Today, History, Culture, People, Arts & Crafts, Environment, Survival Guide.

Liberia, a lush, green, friendly and vibrant land, offers everything from excellent surf spots and shops selling wares by edgy local designers to days spent lolling in a comfy hammock on the edge of the rainforest while listening to tropical birds sing.

• explore the relics of Liberia’s rich history and the American influence that still shapes the capital, Monrovia.
• maps
• hit the long, bumpy road to the pretty town of Harper that’s blessed with southern American architecture and an end-of-the-line feel.
• transport
• venture into the habitat of the endangered pygmy hippo, camping beneath the forest can-opy and listening to the sounds of the rainforest in Sapo National Park
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Monrovia, Marshall, Robertsport, Buchanan, Mount Nimba, Zwedru, Harper, Understand Liberia, Liberia Today, History, Culture, People, Arts & Crafts, Environment, Survival Guide.

Those who have visited this desert republic tell stories of a warm and generous population liv-ing in ancient caravan cities at the edge of the Sahara. However, the current security situation means that Niger is still largely off limits to travellers.

• the spiky summit of the majestic mud mosque overlooking the town of Agadez and the Sa-hara
• maps
• West Africa’s last wild herd of giraffes in Kouré
• transport
• The sultan’s palace within the fascinating Birni Quartier of Zinder tells of a brutal history
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Understand Niger, Niger Today, History, Culture, En-vironment, Survival Guide.

Nigeria is a pulsating powerhouse: nearly every fifth African is Nigerian. Lagos, the main city, is resurgent: with burgeoning tech industries, posh restaurants and clubs, and an exploding arts scene, this megacity is the face of modern Africa.

• join the gold rush of super-confident booming Lagos, and explore its insatiably lively art and music scene
• maps
• climb the sacred rock of Abeokuta via historic hideouts and shrines, and look out on the picturesque rooftops from a high vantage point
• transport
• learn about traditional crafts, browse impressive galleries and lose yourself on the river bank in the sacred grove in Oshogbo
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Lagos, Abeokuta, Ibadan, Oshogbo, Benin City, Cal-abar, Abuja, Understand Nigeria, Nigeria Today, History, Culture, Environment, Survival Guide.

Floating in the Gulf of Guinea, this two-island nation, Africa’s second-smallest, blends natural wonders with a gripping history. While both islands have their natural rewards, Príncipe should not be missed.

• boat past Príncipe’s extraordinary volcanic skyline in the Baía das Agulhas, a spectacular trip back in time
• maps
• visit roças (plantations) like Roça Agua Izė for an eye-opening look at a national calamity
• transport
• eat thick slabs of deep-sea fish at restaurants such as Papa Figo in São Tomé
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: São Tomé, São Tomé (City), Northern Coast, Southern Coast, Ilhéu das Rolas, Príncipe, Santo António, Understand São Tomé & Príncipe, São Tomé & Príncipe Today, History, The People, Environment, Survival Guide.

This chapter contains the Welcome to West Africa, West Africa’s Top 17, Need to Know, If You Like…, Month by Month, Itineraries, and Countries at a Glance chapters from Lonely Plan-et’s West Africa guidebook.

Your journey to West Africa starts here. You’ll find the tools to plan your adventure: where to go and when, how much to budget, plus in-depth info on attractions by country and by theme.

• tailor-made itineraries, arranged by region, themes and events
• list of highlights and best experiences
• everything you need to know to plan off-road adventures or beach escapes
• user-friendly country overview ensures you won’t miss a thing

Coverage includes: Welcome to West Africa, West Africa’s Top 17, Need to Know, If You Like: Wildlife, Beaches, Untouched Landscapes, Hiking, Month by Month, Itinerar-ies, and Countries at a Glance.

Though it’s one of West Africa’s most stable countries, Senegal is far from dull. Perched on the tip of a penin-sula, Dakar, the capital, is a dizzying, street-hustler-rich introduction to the country.

• weave your way via tiny villages to Senegal’s best beaches on the Cap Skirring, and kick back for a day of doing absolutely nothing
• maps
• wander the cobblestone streets of Unesco World Heritage Site Saint-Louis, past colourful French colonial buildings
• transport
• spend sleepless nights touring Dakar’s vibrant nightclubs and bars
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Dakar, Île de Gorée, Petite Côte, Siné-Saloum Delta, Mbour, Saly, Palmarin, Toubakouta, Missirah, Toubab Dialao, Saint-Louis, Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj, Tambacounda, Parc National de Niokolo-Koba, Casamance, Ziguinchor, Cap Skirring, Understand Senegal, Senegal Today, History, People & Culture, Survival Guide.

For the traveller, Sierra Leone is still West Africa’s secret beach destination. Sweet sands rise from the soft waters of the Atlantic, with the backdrop dressed in sun-stained hues, rainforest green and the red, red roads of the north.

• join a nighttime hike through the forest of Tiwai Island in search of the elusive pygmy hip-po
• maps
• eat barbecued lobster pulled fresh from the sea at one of Freetown Peninsula’s stunning beaches.
• transport
• glide down the river by dugout canoe while monkeys and birds chatter in the surrounding forest, in Outamba-Kilimi National Park
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Freetown, Freetown Peninsula, Banana Islands, Riv-er No 2, Tokeh Beach, Bunce Island, Makeni, Mt Bintumani, Outamba-Kilimi National Park, Bo, Turtle Islands, Tiwai Island, Gola Rainforest National Park, Understand Sierra Leone, Sierra Le-one Today, History, Culture, Survival Guide.

The smallest country on the continent has a captivating array of attractions that belie its tiny size. Its mere 80km of coastline encompasses golden beaches backed by swaying palms and sprinkled with scenic lagoons, sleepy fishing villages and biologically rich coastal reserves.

• boat past river islands at the Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Project, where great apes rule
• maps
• indulge in fresh seafood while watching the sunset over the seaside at the Atlantic Coast resorts
• transport
• be teased by monkeys on the 4.5km nature trail in Bijilo Forest Park
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Banjul, Serekunda & Atlantic Coast Resorts, Abuko Nature Reserve, Makasuta Culture Forest, Tanji, Brufut, Gunjur, Lower Gambia River, Albreda, Juffureh & Kunta Kinteh Island, Baobolong Wetland Reserve & Kiang West National Park, Basse Santa Su, River Gambia National Park, Tujering, Sanyang, Wassu Stone Circles, Understand The Gambia, The Gambia Today, History, People, Arts & Crafts, Environment, Survival Guide