This is the San Giovanni to Testaccio chapter from Lonely Planet’s Rome 7 guidebook.

This sweeping, multifaceted area has something for everyone: medieval churches and monumental basilicas (Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano above all); towering ruins (Terme di Caracalla), and tranquil parkland (Villa Celimontana). Down by the river, Testaccio is an earthy, workaday district known for its traditional trattorias and thumping nightlife.

• Facing up to the overpowering splendour of the monumental Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano. You’ll feel very small as you explore the echoing baroque interior of Rome’s oldest Christian basilica
• maps
• Going underground through layers of history at the Basilica di San Clemente
• transport
• restaurants & bars
• Being over-awed by the towering ruins of the Terme di Caracalla

Coverage includes: Neighbourhood Top Five, Local Life, Getting There & Away, Sights, San Giovanni, Celio, Aventino & Around, Testaccio, Eating and Drinking & Nightlife.