This is the Nagorno-Karabakh chapter from Lonely Planet’s Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan guidebook.

The beauty and cultural richness of Nagorno-Karabakh’s remote mountain landscape are undeniable. The Karabakh War left psychological and physical scars but the Karabakhtis are rebuilding. Travel here is still an adventure, but infrastructure is improving and Karabakhti hospitality a joy.

• visit the extraordinary Gandzasar Monastery, an excellent example of Armenian architecture with rich friezes and magnificent detail
• maps
• eat, drink and be merry in Stepanakert, home to a surprisingly good choice of hotels, restaurants and bars
• transport
• explore the ancient remains of Tigranakert, one of the four cities built by Tigran the Great, now home to an excellent new museum
• restaurants & accommodation

Coverage includes: Understand Nagorno-Karabakh, History, Nagorno-Karabakh Today, Directory, Stepanakert, Shushi, southern Karabakh, northeast Karabakh, northwest Karabakh, Kelbajar