This is the Warmia & Masuria chapter from Lonely Planet’s Poland guidebook.

There’s something in the water in these two northeast regions bordering the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad – mostly hundreds of sailors, windsurfers and kayakers who come to make a splash in the Great Masurian Lakes that dominate the landscape.

• join the faithful throngs at Święta Lipka, a major place of Polish Catholic pilgrimage
• maps
• scramble around the Wolf’s Lair, Hitler’s secret wartime bunker
• transport
• restaurants & accommodation
• do a spot of cobblestone-surfing in Olsztyn’s Old Town

Coverage includes: The Olsztyn Region, Olsztyn, Olsztynek, Grunwald, Ostróda, Elbląg-Ostróda Canal, Lidzbark Warmiński, Święta Lipka, The Great Masurian Lakes, Kętrzyn, Węgorzewo, Giżycko, Mikołajki and Łuknajno Reserve.